Day 11

Ciao!

Today was an odd day. We woke up early to give us time to walk across the city to the train station again. This time we were catching a bus to go to a woman's house for a cooking lesson. We waited around for a while then we were supposed to get on the #23 bus, so when it came we ran to it and jumped on, only to find out it was the wrong one. So we got off, walked to the other side of the terminal, and waited even longer for bus #23B to come along. We got on this crowded bus only to find out that it goes right past both our streets and literally right past the other girls' apartment door. So we were kind of annoyed. We eventually made it to a nearby bus stop and got off, but it was the wrong one. So the directions we had were rendered useless so we got kind of lost for a few minutes.

When we finally found the apartment and made our way inside, Manuela and her mother greeted us into their home with so much warmth. We walked into the cute little kitchen that was all ready for a cooking class. However, the kitchen is so small that only 6 could cook at a time, and I was in the second group. So Rosie, Sarah, Zoe, Krista, Chelsea, and I left the apartment and just wandered down the street until we found a cute cafe to hang out in for an hour and a half. We seriously just sat there and chatted and it was very nice! When we went back to the apartment, though, the other group wasn't finished, so we were sent to Manuela's 2-year-old daughters room to sit and wait. That was weird but fun. I don't know how long we were in there, but I did a few puzzles and we talked some more and generally had a good time figuring out what life is like for a 2-year old girl named Alice who has an Italian mother and a British father.

When it was finally our turn, we returned to this adorable kitchen with purple paint on the walls, Christmas lights under the white cabinets, and a tall French door leading to a balcony where they grow fresh herbs. The 6 of us put on white aprons over our clothes and stood at our spots at the table with cutting boards in front of us. We made tiramisu first (so we could let it sit while we made and ate everything else), bruschetta second, and a pasta dish third. I got my own personal dish because I was the only vegetarian there; it was really just what everyone else had, just replacing sausage with cheese. It was called pasta con salsiccia e funghi . It was short thick noodles in a sauce made with nothing but olive oil, chopped mushrooms, onion, tomato, and a smoky cheese. I'm not usually a fan of mushrooms, but this dish was delicious. The bruschetta was also perfect. And this was my first time eating tiramisu and I'm afraid to try it again because this was probably the best it'll ever be. All in all this cooking class was a wonderful experience. Manuela was terrific and so nice, and it was awesome to see inside a real Italian home.

After we left Manuela, we made our way back to the bus stop. As we approached it, we hit a wall of the most horrible smell any of us has ever experienced. There was a truck immediately in front of the bus stop, pumping sewage out of a nearby store or the ground or something. I don't know. I didn't look for fear of getting pink eye. I just put my scarf over my mouth and we all walked around the corner. We could still smell it, and we stood there like fools for at least 5 minutes until we realized we were downwind of the stench. So we moved upwind of it and we were all fine. We hopped on the bus when it finally came, but the smell followed us for a little bit. We were all terrified that it had stuck to our clothing. It eventually went away though. Or so we think.....maybe we just got used to it. Crap.

Anyway, we got of the bus at our local grocery store, Conad's (which we refer to as Gonad's because it's easier and funnier and it was all Geoff's idea). Katia and I got a bunch of groceries to share then walked home with Emily. We put our stuff away, Geoff came in, then we left again shortly after to meet Dr. Zaho and everyone for a visit to the Church of the Santa Trinita.

The Church of Santa Trinita is very poorly lit. It was dim in the whole huge space and dark in all the chapels (until you paid to turn some lights on). We looked closely at the Sassetti Chapel, decorated in a fresco cycle by Ghirlandaio. This cycle depicts scenes from the life of St. Francis. He also did the altarpiece, a beautiful Adoration of the Child by the Virgin. After we admired this chapel for a fair amount of time we all kind of just wandered around the church until Dr. Zaho decided it was time to go. We then stood outside for a few minutes discussing our plans for tomorrow, then we split.

Geoff, Katia, Emily, and I took some back roads to our apartment and discovered some cool shops (a few jewelry/art stores and a handmade leather shop and workshop). We came home and ate dinner. I had an avocado with some bread and crackers and probably a few other snack type things. I know I know I'm in Italy and should be eating better meals, but I enjoyed it so whatever. After dinner we wanted gelato so I researched what was close to us that we haven't had and I found out my favorite place (La Carraia from across the river) has a second shop open right by Santa Croce! So we found it, La Carraia 2, and got dessert. I had cheesecake and lemon cookie flavors in a cone. So. Good. Now that I know this place is right around the corner I might be going every night. No shame. It's cheap and delicious.

We took our gelato to the steps of Santa Croce, a building that is close to 700 years old, and just soaked in our surroundings. The piazza at Santa Croce is beautiful at night. There are very few lights to illuminate such a large space, but that only added to the mystique. We sat pretty silently on the steps together (Geoff, Katia, Emily, and I) and just experienced it in our own ways. For me, I took in everything I could with all my senses. I tasted the gelato even after it was long gone. I people watched, seeing happy couples strolling along the path before us, and I looked at the few dim lights and the shadows they cast on these centuries old buildings. I felt the stone beneath me that's been walked on by countless feet in an approach to the church we sat in front of. I heard other groups of young people talking around me, some in Italian, some in English; no matter the language, there was a lot of joy and laughter to hear. I smelled the air around me, which was filled with the most relaxing scent of lavender; we still have no idea where it came from. Overall, I think what I experienced in that time we spent on the steps was what falling in love feels like. It was sad and nostalgic but still exciting and beautiful, and I know it's something I won't feel again for a while.

When we decided to leave the comfort of that time and space, we walked home mostly in silence, walked up to out apartment, and just split ways without a word. On that short walk I realized that I've fallen in love with not only this city, but also this particular time in my life, because I know this is something I'll never get back.

On that pensive note, good night. :)