Monday, June 3, 2013

Day 26

6/1/13


Happy June, everyone!

Today was a lot of fun! We started out the day like any other with breakfast and rough plans to go to a few places. We hopped on a bus at the train station in hopes of getting to the church where Emily was going to do her presentation. As soon as we got on and all sat down, the rain came pouring down. We sat at the station for about 20 minutes before the bus started moving. Once we got going, we were headed up to the area where we were yesterday for the catacombs. Then we kept going further. And further. Then we made a big turn and were headed back the way we came. And we kept going. We finally got off after being on the bus for an hour and a half; Brittany asked Dr. Zaho, “How far are we from the hotel?” and Dr. Zaho responded by pointing to the building at the end of the road about two blocks away and said, “There’s the train station.” You know, the place we left from. We essentially rode the bus in a giant circle to avoid the rain and travel two blocks. Nobody was upset though; we got to sit down, hang out, and see the city all while being out and avoiding the rain.

We made it to the church around noon, afraid that they were closing then. Emily had enough time to present, though, which was awesome. She did her project on the Coronaro Chapel in Santa Maria della Vittoria. This chapel features a fantastic sculpture of the Ecstasy of Saint Theresa and portraits of the family that owns the chapel, all by Bernini. It was beautiful. The whole thing. And a nice priest lit it up for us when he heard that Emily was presenting information about it. So cool. After that we went back out and walked towards the Capitoline Museum, over a mile away.

On the way there we decided to stop for a quick lunch. We chose a small pizza/pasta place in a piazza at the bottom of a large staircase. It was a bad choice. I got a slice of bad pizza for 2 euro and a cup full of sliced strawberries for 4 euro. 4 euro is a lot for a cup full of sliced strawberries. But it was worth it because those strawberries were delicious and I felt the need for some fresh fruit this afternoon. Anyway, no one liked the food they got but we were hungry so there were no complaints.

Once we left there we were walking past the Vittorio Emmanuel memorial building, also known as the Wedding Cake. My parents had told me all about this place after their trip to Rome, so I was excited to be close to it to share it with them. The gate to the front was open, so Dr. Zaho decided that we might as well walk up all the stairs and see what was up. So we walked up all the steps (there are a lot) to the front doors, entered, didn’t see a ticket booth and kept going. Zaho wanted to get as high up as we could so we went out to a terrace and got a nice view, but she wanted more. So we turned a corner and found a huge glass elevator precariously placed next to the back of the building. She ended up buying us all tickets to get ride it to the tippy top of this huge building. The ride up was really cool (I compared it to the glass elevator in Charlie and the Chocolate Factory) and the view from the top was spectacular. It really helped us all get a bearing on the geography of the city. I got to see the Pantheon from way up high and we were so close to the Forum and Colosseum, so all the wide shots of the view were dominated by the coolest monuments here. It was awesome and the sun has never seemed so bright as the time we spent up there because we were surrounded by the bright white of the building.

We descended after about 25 minutes up there and walked around a corner and down a few steps to get into a church that butts up to the terrace level of the Wedding Cake (which, by the way, was built in the first decade of the 1900s). This church had the coolest chapel I’ve seen in Italy. It might have been so cool because it was so different and unique, but it was designed to look like a cave. Seriously, it was dominated by stone and the paintings in it were layered like a stage set. I loved it. There were also these round portraits surrounding the top of the wall just below the ceiling that featured what I’m assuming were saints. These images were literally emerging from their frames. One woman looked like a superhero while the man across from her couldn’t keep the crucifix he was holding within his frame. I loved them and that church was incredible.

After the church we walked down a flight of stairs with over 100 steps (Dr. Zaho told us this then I heard a man counting out loud with his son as they were walking up) just to get to the bottom, turn a corner, and walk up a bunch of stair-type things to get to the Capitoline Museum. These steps and the courtyard outside the museum were all designed by Michelangelo; that’s pretty cool, I guess. We stood out there for a while discussing the Marcus Aurelius statue in the center, then made our way inside. When we entered the museum and saw the pieces of the giant sculpture of Constantine, only to find them all covered with clear plastic and scaffolding or something but I was still excited to see it. After that we began going through rooms.

Before we even saw anything really memorable (besides a cool Archimedes exhibit and some old murals and mosaics) we ran into a family from UCF. The two boys go there and the father is an astronomy professor. Weird, right? One of the guys was wearing a UCF shirt so we spotted him and talked for a few minutes, though the guard kept telling us to be quiet and the professor dad had no interest in any of us, including Dr. Zaho.

Interesting/memorable things we saw in the Capitoline Museum: archaic Greek pottery; the real Marcus Aurelius statue in a beautiful modern space; a sleeping guard in this beautiful modern space; ancient statues; some paintings; a statue of the Dying Gaul. As we were walking underground from one side of the museum to another, Dr. Zaho made us walk up even more steps to a seemingly hidden balcony area with the most astounding view of the Roman Forum. Man, was it awesome. We were all stunned when we reached the top of those steps and saw the Arch of Titus glowing in the sunlight. We all took a lot of photos and just relaxed while music quietly played from some mysterious source.

When we were done with the museum, a few of us hopped on a bus to return to the hotel to grab cash for dinner and a surprise for Dr. Zaho. When we were ready to go to the restaurant for our final dinner, we hopped on a packed bus at the train station. And when I say packed, I mean we were like sardines in a tin can. It was pretty awful at the beginning. Fortunately, I was sandwiched between Rosie and Brittany but I know others weren’t as well of as me in the situation. When we finally got to our stop, we hopped off and it began raining. None of us brought our rain jackets because when we went back to the hotel the weather was beautiful. So we pushed through if, hugging buildings and hopping from awning to awning. Then it got worse. It was basically a torrential downpour when we hit the spot with no awnings or coverings of any kind. Suffice it to say, we were all soaked. But it began to slow down and we were about a block from the restaurant, so we went for it. As we were about to make a right, we almost literally ran into Dr. Zaho and Chelsea, who were heading in the opposite direction. So we joined them and went the correct way to Hostaria Costanza.

Hostaria Costanza, the restaurant we ate at, is in a location that was part of the Pompeo Theater, the place where Julius Caesar was murdered so many years ago. So this place has a neat history, it’s adorable, and everything everyone ate there was perfect. Katia and I shared a veggie appetizer; this plate had zucchini, onions, eggplant, and green peppers on it. All were grilled or fried and each thing was delicious. Ugh. I can’t even talk about how good those onions were. I’ll never eat onions that good at home. After we finished our appetizers and ordered our main course, we gave Dr. Zaho her surprise. While we were in Florence, my roommates and I stopped in an old bookstore near our apartment. Geoff found this amazing book about Florence that was written in English and published in the early 1900s. We had to get it for our professor. So we gave that to her tonight, as well as a lovely card with an illustration of our beloved Santa Croce on the front. She didn’t see it though, because she didn’t want to open it and cry too hard at dinner.

We ended up telling her how much we appreciate everything she’s done for us, and she pretty much did the same. A lot of very nice things were said. I cried. A lot of us did. This trip has been so incredible and wonderful but still stressful and hard at times. It got pretty tough to be together with 12 other people all the time, so tensions ran high sometimes, but overall we all get along really well as a group and we’ve learned to love one another and notice all the little things about each other. It’s a wonderful thing and we’re all aware of the bizarre and beautiful nature of our relationships with each other, a kind that we won’t be able to find with anyone else.

Anyway. After our little festival of kind words, we got our food. I got gnocchi al tegamino, which was potato gnocchi with a tomato, mozzarella, and basil sauce. It was so good. Maybe the best thing I’ve had on this trip, I don’t know. Katia got artichoke ravioli that was also very tasty. Once we were done with our meals we did the best and worst sights, sounds, touched, tastes, and smells of Rome. My bests: entering the Pantheon for the first time (sight); the live music everywhere (sound); playing with one another’s hair (touch); tartufo (taste); and fresh cut flowers at an outdoor stand (smell). My worsts: men on the street outside our hotel (sight); squeaking noises made by dumb teenagers during Rosie’s presentation (sound); the cold and wet marble in the catacombs (touch); purse sandwiches by the end of the week (taste); and bathrooms (smell).

While we were in the middle of sharing our experiences, we paused to take a look at the dessert menu. As we were doing this (rather quietly, I might add), a man that was sitting behind us stood up and started speaking to Dr. Zaho in a harsh tone. None of us speak Italian but we all knew he was saying we were disturbing his dinner. I turned around and looked at the woman she was with and the couple sitting near them; both women looked pissed and pretty much ugly as hell with the bitter looks on their faces. Dr. Zaho talked this guy back into his seat then got up to tell management that we had been disturbed. All the waiters pretty said they don’t like that guy anyway, but the owner likes him because he has money. So a waiter came over and, according to Dr. Zaho, “schooled” the guy. As he was doing this, the man from the second couple began yelling at us. Literally yelling at us, the same phrase over and over. This man was complaining about us being a disturbance but he hushed the entire dining room with his shouts.

It was ridiculous. But I urged us to finish out bests and worsts, so we did, and the second couple was so annoyed that they left. We decided against dessert there because we wanted to leave and I suppose not give any extra money to the owner or something like that. As we were leaving, Dr. Zaho went over to the man who had started this whole scene and said something to him along the lines of, “Bye, enjoy your dinner! Have a good night, and good Sunday.” I didn’t notice this, but the man was apparently wearing a large Star of David necklace, and as you probably know, Italy is a very Catholic country that is very serious about Sundays. So by her saying have a good Sunday, she took a great subtle jab at him. Oh man, it was great. I didn’t see his reaction but I guess he had nothing to say to that.

So we left the restaurant in search of dessert. We decided to head back to Tre Scalinin in Piazza Nuvola for some more tartufo. No complaints there. It was just as delicious this time as it was the first. After hanging around for a while and chatting amongst the group, we made our way home. A few split off to go out, but me and others came back to the hotel. We got on another packed bus. I won’t miss that part of Rome. Well, I probably will in a weird way. I didn’t shower last night so I was stoked to come back here and shower. As soon as I got into my room I realized that Ana Maria was out and would be out for a while so I decided to pamper myself. I cleaned and clipped my toenails, shaved, showered for a bit longer than usual, and just took my time to get clean and comfortable. It was wonderful.

Now it’s 2 AM and Ana Maria isn’t back yet. I’m so tired and tomorrow is our last day in Italy and I don’t even know how I’m going to handle that. I plan on eating gelato and seeing a few more sites before I can say I’m done. Who am I kidding, I can never really say I’m done with Italy. I’ll miss the heck out of it. And the people I’m with. I can’t wait to be home in my own bed but jeez, I’ve become so comfortable here in this situation. All good things must come to an end though, right?

I’m going to bed now. Good night!

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